‘Our kitchen’ keeps growing, even if it falls off our radar

Taste

By liz colie gadberry

The Portland Tribune, Dec 14, 2007, Updated Oct 30, 2009

JIM CLARK / TRIBUNE PHOTO

Three years into its mission, Nuestra Cocina continues to warm the hearts and stomachs of its patrons, first with freshly made tortillas, followed by scrumptious entrees.

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Have you ever looked in your closet for something and ended up finding a piece of clothing you’d forgotten existed but really like? I had that experience a couple of weeks ago on Southeast Division Street.

I didn’t find my favorite shirt lying on the sidewalk, but I did rediscover Nuestra Cocina (2135 S.E. Division St., 503-232-2135).

I’d somehow lost track of the three-year-old Mexican restaurant and hadn’t visited in more than a year.

They didn’t miss me. Business is booming.

And Nuestra Cocina is bigger now. An addition, dubbed the mole room, debuted in October. It’s a private dining space off the main dining room that also is used for overflow seating on busy weekend nights.

Because the room has its own patio, it’s sure to be an especially big hit during the summer. Many restaurants have private dining rooms, but I can’t think of another with an accompanying private patio.

More important, the food at Nuestra Cocina still is incredibly satisfying, starting with the complimentary, warm, freshly made tortillas. It’s great to have something to nibble on while reading the menu.

Appetizers and entrees both shine. From the appetizer section, tacos of spicy pork, onions and Arbol chile will have you licking your fingers.

Grilled prawns have a slightly smoky flavor and are served with a tasty dipping sauce. The ceviche of the day and the grilled Spanish goat cheese are other great dishes.

My favorite entree is the braised pork with pickled red onions and black beans.

Often pork is so lean that it barely has a taste at all, and restaurants must smother it with sauce to provide flavor.

Not so at Nuestra Cocina, where the generous hunk of braised pork is fatty enough, super rich and fall-apart tender. Slightly sour onions and straightforward black beans are the perfect accompaniment.

Vegetarians are not neglected here. At least four starters and two entrees are without meat, including scrumptious roasted pumpkin enchiladas.

Service at Nuestra Cocina is professional and friendly, and the margaritas are excellent. The short dessert menu doesn’t disappoint, either — order anything with bananas and you’ll be happy.

A large open kitchen dominates one half of the room, and a cheerful bar is the focal point of the other. It’s a fun, bustling spot — a good place to go with another couple.

Arrive when it opens and you won’t have to wait for a table. The restaurant doesn’t take reservations.

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