Bread & Butter • Trout at Cafe Nell, waffles on Division

By Anne Marie DiStefano

The Portland Tribune, Jan 29, 2009, Updated Oct 30, 2009

L.E. BASKOW / TRIBUNE PHOTO

A fireplace and large windows facing south and east fill Cafe Nell with warmth and light.

Never sneak up on a moose. Never gossip about someone who is in the same room with you. Never order trout in a restaurant.

That’s my advice, but there are exceptions.

I admit that when I ordered the trout at Cafe Nell, it was more as a test than because I was sure I would enjoy it. But a steady hand in the kitchen delivered trout’s delicate, elusive flavor and texture to the table, bolstered by a filling of fennel, sautéed shallots and almonds. The fish is cooked whole, and served on a bed of fresh arugula.

Cafe Nell opened in September in the spot that once housed the super-premium, francophile destination, Hurley’s. Chef Tom Hurley left town last year to focus on his Seattle restaurant, Coupage, which has since closed. The $28 Hurley burger is gone, replaced with a simpler menu of American favorites, with touches of Europe in the form of salt cod fritters, duck confit, and an omelet served with fries.

The term “comfort food” is pretty worn out, but there’s no way around it here. With a Cobb salad for lunch, braised meats and pan roasted chicken for dinner and rustic fruit pies for dessert, Cafe Nell clearly wants to make you feel at home. For added warmth, there’s a red-tiled fireplace in the dining room, and during the afternoon, sunlight pours through two walls of mullioned windows.

The place is owned by a couple of transplants from New York who did their homework before opening their doors in early September of 2008. Darren Creely, who co-owns with his husband, Van Creely, says that they walked pretty much every street of Northwest Portland with their dog, getting to know the neighborhood and looking for just the right spot.

“We wanted to live and work in the same neighborhood,” he says.

They’ve already weathered their first upheaval: the original chef decided to leave town. Andrew Garrett, who did time at 23Hoyt and Clarklewis, picked up the reins just two weeks before my dinner there. I wouldn’t have guessed it from the solid, assured meal, although dishes arrived a bit slowly.

Salads at Cafe Nell are simple, almost to a fault. Mixed greens are barely touched with dressing (mine had a single small crouton). A verdant pile of arugula with a little bit of shaved fennel seems underdressed for $9. But salt cod fritters hit the spot – crunchy outside, creamy and savory within.

The duck confit is moist and rich, served over sturdy ribbons of pappardelle. Braised lamb shank – lots of meat on a huge hunk of bone – is simple, succulent and comforting. It rests on a pile of mashed potatoes that could use a bit more seasoning. A side of brussels sprouts, by contrast, is flavorful and unapologetically studded with chunks of bacon.

For dessert one night, I tried a chocolate walnut torte, which was rather dry. Much better was a fruit crisp I had on a different day. Mild baked apples were zested up with sweet-tart dried cherries and a sweet, buttery, crumbling topping full of walnuts, and topped with vanilla ice cream.

Entrees at Cafe Nell currently run from $11 to $21, with a range of sides available for $5 each. You could spend a fair amount of money here, if you wanted to, but it’s not a requirement. It’s open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and feels like the kind of place where you can just drop on by. For peak dinner times, though, I recommend making a reservation.

Cafe Nell, 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday, 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sunday, closed Monday, 1987 N.W. Kearney St., 503-295-6487

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