Henry’s menu wows way past breakfast

By Audrey Van Buskirk

The Portland Tribune, Mar 18, 2005, Updated Oct 30, 2009

As you’ve likely noticed, this week’s Portland Tribune is stuffed with our annual restaurant guide, featuring reviews of dozens of the city’s finest dining establishments.

While these places offer elegant and gourmet dining experiences on par with any in the country, sometimes you’re in the mood for bacon and eggs. When that’s the case, there are few better options than the charming Henry’s Cafe, tucked in the middle of Southeast Clinton Street.

It may take a while to get a table for a weekend breakfast, but with an excellent latte in hand, it’s well worth the wait. The skinny space is bisected by a long wooden counter with narrow stools. On one side, small tables and chairs hug a wall decorated with contemporary art; on the other, an old-school prep station and grill get near constant use as an unruffled cook flips flapjacks, stirs up concoctions of eggs and potatoes, and fries some of the best bacon around, firm and meaty, with perfect rivulets of fat.

The breakfast menu features loads of incredible eggs, whipped into omelets filled with things like pesto and mozzarella, a hash of bacon, sausage, potatoes and garlic, or scrambled with smoked salmon and mushrooms and herbs. They all come with well-flavored roasted potato wedges and crunchy whole-wheat toast.

The buttermilk pancakes are as fluffy as pillows and can be dotted with blueberries or blackberries. Brioche dipped in a nutmeg batter becomes luscious French toast.

For lunch, try a big spinach or Caesar salad or one of the creamy soups, such as tomato bisque or a fresh-tasting broccoli. The Henry’s special pairs a cup with a half sandwich such as a grilled cheese decorated with tomato and more of the bacon. Pork: It’s what’s for lunch Ñ or breakfast.

Ñ Audrey Van Buskirk

2508 S.E. Clinton St., 503-236-8707, 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. daily

Correction: The address of the March 11 restaurant of the week, PeemKaew, is 323 N.W. Park Ave.

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